卡地亚Cartier 高级珠宝工坊总监 Xavier Gargat谈珠宝的诞生

       从1847年至今，卡地亚Cartier 已在皇室与贵族名流的悠长珠宝历史中获得了举足轻重的地位，几乎所有国家的王室都曾向卡地亚 Cartier 订做珠宝，英国国王「爱德华三世」（Edward VII）将 卡地亚Cartier 形容为「The jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers」。

       kadiyacartier gaojizhubaogongfangzongjian xavier gargat xiangzhubaozazhigaojizhubaogongfangli，zhubaogongjiangmenshejihezhizuo high jewelry zuopindedutexijie。

       Q：你如何看待珠宝工匠的工作？

       a：zuoweiyimingzhubaogongjiang，womengongzuodebenzhijiushichengxianchuzhubaodesuoyongyoude「mei」。jiandanlaishuo，mingxingshidianyingzhongdezhujiao，zaigaojizhubaogongfangdegongzuozhong，mingxingjiushineixiezhenguidebaoshi。

       Q：Cartier 高级珠宝工坊有多少名珠宝匠？他们的分工是怎样的呢？

       A：我们有36名造诣深厚的珠宝工匠，工作坊是开放式的环境，每个人可以看到其他人在做什么，可以随时交流和沟通——这对于珠宝工匠来说是至关重要的，因为培养一个珠宝工匠需要10年以上的时间，他们要不断累积经验，不断观察和学习其他人的技艺。

       womenyoufengongjiweizhuanyedegongjiang，liruyou5ming「baoshixiangqianshi」zhuanmenxiangqianzuidazuizhenguidebaoshi，5ming「paoguangshi」wanchengzhubaoshangjinshucaizhidepaoguang，2ming「tuolazhuzaoshi」zhizuozuifuzalitidelamohezhuxing，「qiegeshi」duiguizhongbaoshijinxingqiegeyouhua，rangbaoshichengxianchuzuimeilidongrendebenzhi。

       Q：能否简单描述一下一个珠宝工匠的工作台是什么样的？

       a：zheizhangzhaopianchengxianleyigezhubaogongjiangdebiaozhungongzuotai，nikeyikandaozheigegongzuotaiganjingzhengjie。buguo，xianshibingfeiruci，shishishang，yigezhubaogongjiangdegongzuotaiyongyuanshiluanqibazaode，yinweitayongyuanzaixunzhaozuiheshidegongju，xuyaozaizhuomianshangbaifanggezhonggeyangdegongju，shenzhizijichuangzaochuteshudegongju。

       zhubaogongjiangdezhuozishangwangwangyouhenduofenchen——bojinfen、huangjinfenzheixiejiagongzhubaoshichanshengdecaizhisuixie，zheixiesuixiebeishoujidaogongzuotaixiamiandepidouzhong，meinianwomencongzhubaojiangzhuozishangshoujideguijinshusuixiezhongliangchaoguo1kg。

       buguo，meigezhubaogongjianghaishiyouyixietongyongdegongjude，lirudiandeng、dianzuan、chunyangpendeng、shoucuo、chuizi、qianzi、zhencuo、juzihejutiaodeng。

       Q：一件高级珠宝的创意是如何诞生的？

       a：zai cartier degaojizhubaogongfang，baoshishizuihexinde，huanjuhuashuo，womenxiancaigoubaoshi，ranhoujiangbaoshijiaojishejishi，rangshejishilaishejichuzuinengtixianzheikebaoshizhimeidezhubaozuopin。

       conglingyigejiaodulaishuo，womenzaicaigoubaoshideshihoujiuxuyaoyouyidingdechuangzaoxing，womengoumaiyikebaoshibudanchunyinweiqizhengui，gengzhongyaodeshikaolvzheikebaoshidemeixuejiazhi，kaolvnenggouyongzheikebaoshizuochushenmesheji，zheishiyigefeichangzhongyaodebiaozhun。

       Q：设计稿完成后呢？整件珠宝的制作有哪些步骤？

       a：yizheitiaoxianglianweili，womenshouxianzhizuozhubaodezuchenglingjian，rubaoshidejinshudituo，yibanyigedulibaoshidedizuoyaohaofei8gexiaoshidezhizuoshijian；dizuowanchenghou，womenjiangdizuohebaoshipailiezaipuyoulademuzhimoteshang，quedingmeigelingjiandeweizhi，bingyulanzhubaowanchengshidexiaoguo。

  ;     suihou，womenjiangbaoshicongdizuoshangquxialai，baoliudizuozailacengshang，jiaoshangshigao，rangdizuowanquangudingzaishigaoshang。genjudizuozaishigaoshangdeweizhi，zhubaojiangzaizhizuolianjiemeiyigedizuodelianjiejinshujian。

       lianjiejianzhizuohaohou，yonglianjiejianjiang「baoshidizuo」lianqilai，zheiyangzhenggebaoshidejiegoujiuzuohaole，jiaojipaoguangshijinxingpaoguang，zuihouyouxiangqianshijiangbaoshixiangqianshangqu。

       Q：更立体的珠宝如何制作呢？比如小豹子这种形象？

       A：立体珠宝是从上世纪40年代开始逐渐流行起来的，在制作这种珠宝时，我们会使用一种名为「脱蜡铸造法」的工艺。

       shouxianzhubaojiangyongruanladiaokechuzhubaodemoxing，zailamoshanghuaxian、zuankongyiquedingxiangqianhefalangdenggongyideweizhi，wanchengdelamojiaoji「tuolazhuzaoshi」，zhuzaochushejihaozaoxingdeguijinshubujian。

       ranhouzaiyoubaoshixiangqianshiwanchengxiangqianbuzhou，zhubaoshijiangzhengjianzhubaozuhehao，jinxingzuizhongdedamohepaoguang。

       Q：高级珠宝工坊是否有自己独立的宝石采购团队？他们是如何进行宝石采购的呢？

       a：womendebaoshicaigoutuanduihegongzuofangshixianghudulide，zai kadiyacartier dezhubaobaoshicaigoubumenyousigefenbu：yigefenbufuzecaigou1kelayishangdedaxingzuanshi，yigefenbufuzecaigou1kelayixiadexiaozuan；lingwailianggebufenfuzecaigoucaisebaoshi，tongyangyeshiyigefenbucaigou1kelayishangdedaxingcaisebaoshi，yigefenbucaigou1kelayixiadexiaobaoshi。

       jiandanlaishuo，1kelayishangdebaoshiwomencaiyongdeshixiangoumaihoushejidecelve，erdiyu1keladexiaobaoshi，womenwangwanggenjuzhubaoshejigaodexuqiujinxinghouxucaigou。