卡地亚、梵克雅宝、宝格丽等大牌珠宝标志性制作工艺介绍

henduorenxihuankadiya、fankeyabao、baogelidengdapaizhubao，shixihuantamenpinpaibeihoudelishiyuwenhuadiyun，danduiyuyixiezhubaokuangreaihaozhelaishuo，zheixiepinpaizhubaosuocaiyongdezhizuogongyilingtamenshenshenchimi，birufankeyabaodeyinmishibaoshixiangqian，baogelidemeiqiguanduanzaogongyi，buqilatidiaojingongyidengdeng。

一、梵克雅宝隐秘式宝石镶嵌

yinmishixiangqianfazhideshishipinzhengmianwanquankanbujianrenhejinshuzhijiahuodizuo，suoyiyejiao“bujianjinxiang”he“wubianxiang”，zheizhongjifayoubaligongjiangjacques-albert algieryu1929nianfaming，jinglileshushiniankaoyan。yunyongzheizhongxiangqianfazhizuodezhubaomeiyourenherouyankejiandedizuo，xiangshixiaoguojianjieyuemu，lingzhubaowubilinglongtitoujinbainianlaibeishouqinglai。muqianyezhiyoujishaodezhubaoxiangqianshidongdezheizhonggongyi。

diyijianyingyong“yinxingshi”xiangqianjishudezhubaoshiminaudièrebaibaoxia，zheishiyigegailianghoudehuazhuanghe，nenggoucunfanghuazhuangpinhuozhetangguo。hegaiyuhekoushangdouzhiyoujiandandejihexiantiao，“yinxingshi”xiangqianfajinyibujiaqiangleminaudièrebaibaoxiashangbaoshidejianguxing，zhanxianchupinghengyudianya。

jinshuxixianzhuchengdefanggebixujueduijingque，zheixuyaogongjiangdashiqiaoshoudejiyicainengbandao，yincizhiyoupinpaigongfangneidezhuanyedashicainengyunyongcixiangyinmishixiangqianfa。jushuo，zheiyangyimeizhubaowanzhengdezhizuoguocheng，xuyaoshushigeyue，qizhongdeshehuahezhenxikexiangerzhi。

yinmishixiangqianshiyigefanfudeguocheng，xiangzuoyubaoshidouyaojingguoxixindiaoke。meikebaoshizaigongjiangshoushangzhishaoxuyaojingguo90fenzhongdediaozhuo。yinciyiweigongjiangbianyaohuashangshubaishenzhishuqianxiaoshideshijianlaizhizuoyijianzhubao。

1934nian，fankeyabaoshenqingle“yinxingshi”xiangqiandezhuanli。houlaizheixiangxiangqianjishubeigaichengwei“yinmishi”xiangqian。zhidao1990nian，zheixiangjishuyebeiyunyongdaolezuanshixiangqiandangzhong。

二、卡地亚“皮草”镶嵌工艺

“baozi”shikadiyabiaozhixingdeyuansuzhiyi，zheijiubudebutitadechuanqi“picao”xiangqiangongyi，nenggoubazuanshizuochupimaodexiaoguo，jiangliebaobandianyanyidewubijingmiao。zheizhongxiangqiangongyiyouweishiheliebaozhuti，yapingzaibaoshishangdexixiaojinxianjiangbaoshijinjinhuanbao，shengdongzaixianliebaopimao。

chulezheige，haiyoudushuyizhidexiangqianfajiehefengwozhuangloukongtoudiao、diaosupuxiangzuanshi，bingyigaomanaohuotuyuanxinglanbaoshizhuangshi。zheizhongshoufarangpuxiangzuopinbaochiwanzhenglianxu，hongtuodongwuxingxiang，erbuduiqizaochengrenhepohuai。dicengjinshuxiaoshibujian，erdongtaixiaoguoyijiuxuxurusheng。

weiwanchengzuizhongdedongwuzaoxing，zhubaoshihaixujianggegeguanjiezuzhuangzaiyiqi。diaosu、zhuxing、pailiezhubao、xiangqian、pinjiedongwuguanjie，jushuomouxiezuopindechuangzuoliuchengxuhaoshiyinianduo。

1949nian，weiwenshagongjuefurenzhizuodeyimeiliebaoxiongzhen

三、宝格丽零焊接“煤气管”工艺

baogeliyijingzhandeyidaligongyiguangweirenzhi。shengdongduomudebaoshi、baomandetijigan,wubutixianchuyuanziyidalidedutemeiliyuchuangyi,suzaobaogeliduyiwuerdefengge。

1949nian，baogelichuangzuochutubogaswanbiao，tubogasshi“meiqiguan”deyisi，congduoquanchanraodewaixingbiannengzhiqiyi。zheizhongjishudeyuanxinglunkuojuyoulianghaoderourenxing，erqiebuxuyaohanjie。

20shiji40niandaihe50niandai，bulgarijiangcijishushouciyunyongdaoserpentixiliedewanbiaozuopinzhong，lingganzhengshiyuanzi20shiji20niandaiyilaishiyongdeqitishusongguandedutexingzhuang。zai20shiji70niandai，baogelizhongxinqiyongmeiqiguangongyi，bingyunyongdaoshoubiao、shouzhuoxianglianyijijiezhidezhizuodangzhong。

tadegongyitedianjiushibayitiao“she”fenweiruogangexiaoduan，zuihouzuhepinjieqilai。sheshendemeigelinpianjietongguojiaolianxianghuxianjie。

zuizhong，xianjiezhuzujiandejinzhijiaolianqiaomiaoxiaoshiyushixianzhiwai。

rutongmeigepinpaidouyouzijide“kanjia”benshiyiyang，yidalizhumingzhubaopinpaibuqilatizeshiyidumende“zhiwendiaojin”wenming，qichuangzaochudeqingrou“bosha”xiaoguo，butongdehuangjin“bianzhi”jiqiao，jiazhiqiaomiaoxiangqiandegezhongbaoshi，jingmeixianlidefenggelingrenzantanbuyi；bojuezhubaodekexuanzhuanshigongyitongyangyichengweipinpaibiaozhidengdeng。