giazuanshifenjizhengshushiguojishangdoutongyongdezuanshijiandingzhengshu,shizuanshizhiliangzuiyoulidebaozheng,danshi,nihuikangiazuanshizhengshuma?wangshangguanyugiazhengshudejiedugengshicanchabuqi,xiamianxiaobianjiuyongzhongyingwenweidajiaquanmianzhuyijieduyixiagiazuanshizhengshude12tiaokuan,shidajiaduizuanshigiazhengshuyouyigegengweiquanmianqingxidelejie。
一、形状和切工(SHAPE & CUTTING STYLE)
zuanshidexingzhuang (shape)shizhiqizhengquelunkuo,jiyaoweicengdexingzhuang,liru:ganlanxing、yuanxing、xinxing….deng。zuanshideqiegong(cut)shizuanshi4cdengjizhongdediyigec,yinkemiandexingzhuang、shuliangjiqipailiefangshidebutong,huiyoubutongdexingshi,ru:mingliangxing(brilliant)、jietixing(step)、hunheshi(mixed)…dengdeng。
二、尺寸(MEASUREMENTS)
celiangzuanshidechicunjunyihaomi(millimeterhuosuoxiechengmm)weidanwei,jiluzhihaomiyixiadedierweixiaoshuweizhi。youyumeiciceliangdebuyidinghuitongyigebuwei,erqieshiyongbutongdebaoshiceliangkachihuiyouweixiaodewucha,suoyitongyangyikezuanshiruoyouerfenbutongzhengshu,qichicunhuishaoyoubutong,qianhouercideceliang,tongyanghuiyoubuxiangtongdejieguo,danyibuchaochu0.02mmweixiandu。
yuanzuanzaifenlikachidejingmiceliangxiabingbuchunyuan,suoyijiluzuixiaojizuidazhijing(diameter)hequanshen(total depth,jizhenggezuanshidehoudu),huashizuanshijiluqizhang、kuan、gao,yincidouyousanxiangchicunshuzi。
三、重量(WEIGHT)
1kela=0.2ke=100fen。kelademingzilaiyuanhenyouqu,chuanshuozhongzaizhongdongyouyizhongcihuaishu,tasuojiedezidezhonglianghedaxiaoxiangdangyizhi。zheizhongshudeyingwenmingchengweicarob tree,gushihouyouzhenzhushangzuixianjiangqisuojiedezizuoweizhenzhuzhongliangdanwei,zheibianshicarat,jikelazuoweizhongliangdanweidelaiyuan。kelaxianyipubianyongweisuobaoshidezhongliangdanwei,gangkaishideshihoumeigeguojiadiqudekelazhonglianghuiyouchuru,danzi1913nianmeiguoguiding1keladengyuerbaihaokehou,qitaguojiajunyicizuoweibiaozhun,congcibuzaiyouchabie。
四、全深百分比(DEPTH)
jiluquanshenbaifenbidezhuyaomudezaiyulejiegaikezuanshidedagaihouboqingxing,baifenbiyueda,biaoshigaizuanshiyuehou,yuexiaobiaoshiyuebo。danshizuanshidequanshenshouzhuomiandaxiao、guanbugaodu、yaoweihoudujidibushendudeyingxiang,qizhongyouyizhuomiandaxiaodebianhuazuiduo,zhuomiandashizeguanbubo,yizhiquanshenbaifenbishuxiao,fanzhiquanshenbaifenbishuda。lixiangdeguanbujiaoduyingwei34 1/2°,dibushenduwei43.1%。danshenjushijiguanchadejingyan,guanbujiaoduruoyu32°zhi36°fanweinei,dibushenducong42.5%zhi45.5%zhijian,zuanshidounengfahuiqiguangcai,youyugezhongfangxiangerbingbuzimouyitedingweizhiguanchashiweiran。zuanshideqiemobili(proportions)zhuyaobaohanyixiajixiang,bingyiyaoweidekuandu(yuanzuanzeweipingjunkuandu)zuowei1,huoxie100%zuojizhun:
(1)zhuomianbaifenbi(table%),
(2)quanshenbaifenbi(depth%),
(3)jiandidaxiao(culet size),yijishuyubiaomianxiushide,
(4)yaoweihoudu(girdle thickness),
(5)duicheng(symmetry),
(6)moguang,huochengpaoguang(polish)。
yuanzuandequanshenbaifenbixijiangquanshen(houdu)chuyizuixiaoyuzuidazhijingdepingjunshu,zaihuaweibaifenbiersuodezhishu,huanyanzhi,jiweizuanshihouduyuzhijingdebaifenbi。
quanshenbaifenbijisuanzhixiaoshudianyixiadiyiwei,dierweisishewuru。
liru:yuanzuan:zhijing6.50-6.59houdu3.83→ (6.50+6.59)/2=6.545=6.55(sishewuru)3.83/6.55=0.5847=58.5%=quanshenbaifenbi。
huashizuanshijianggao(quanshen)chuyikuandujide,erbujiqizhangdu。
huashizuanshi:zhang13.18kuan8.24gao5.45→ 5.45/8.24=0.6614=66.1%=quanshenbaifenbi。
五、桌面百分比(TABLE%)
yuanzuanzhuomianzuizhangyizuduijiaoxiandezhangduchuyizhijingdepingjunshu、huashizuanshiyizhuomiankuanduchuyizuanshikuandu,suodedebaifenbijiweizhuomianbaifenbi。zhuomianbaifenbijisuanzhizhengshuweizhi,xiaoshudiansishewuru。duizhuomianlaiyan,yingxiangzhuomiandaxiaozuimingxiandeshiguanbuhoudu。chuleguanbuhouduwai,zhuomiandaxiaoshangshouguanbuhoududeyingxiang,ruguanbuweichiyidingdehoudu,zeguanbujiaoduyuedashizhuomianyueda,yuexiaoshizhuomianyiyuexiao。 zaijindaizuanshiqiemolilunzhong,zuiyinqizhengyideshizhuomiandaxiao,qijinshangwujueduibiaozhun。zaiguanbujiaoduhehulixiangde34 1/2°shi,zuichangjiandezhuomianwei58%zhi65%,guozihuoguodadezhuomianbingbushiyibanrensuoxihuande。
genjumeiguobaoshixueyuanxianxingduizuanshiqiemofenjidejianyi,zhuomianyiqidaxiaokefenweixialiesizhongleixing:
xiaoxingzhuomian:53%zhi60%
zhongxingzhuomian:61%zhi64%
daxingzhuomian:65%zhi70%
chaodaxingzhuomian:71%huoyishang。
zhuomiandaxiaoduiliangguang、huoguangyijiwaiguandaxiaodeyingxiang:
zhuomianjiaoxiao zhuomianjiaoda
liangguang jiaomiji(ganjueshao) jiaokuosan(ganjueduo)
huoguang jiaoduo jiaoshao
waiguandaxiao jiaoxiao jiaoda
六.腰围
jiandingzhengshushangdeyaoweilan,suojizaidebaokuoxialieerxiang:
(yi)houdu(girdle thickness):yaoweidehouduyiciqufenweixialiebazhongqingxing:
1. extremely thin jibo
2. very thin henbo-shangke
3. THIN 薄
4. medium shizhong
5. slightly thick shaohou
6. thick hou-shangke
7. very thick henhou
8. extremely thick jihou
yinqiguoboercuiruo。boruodeyaowei,duidikangbengliedenengli,dangranburuhoushizhezhiweiqiang。danshiyaoweizhixuyouxieweihoudu,bianyizugoujianshi,guohoudeyaoweishizuanshibaoliulebuqieshijidezhongliang,yishizuanshixiandehoubenermianjibianxiao,guguohouhuoguobodeyaoweidoubushilianghaodeyaowei。 yaoweidehoududangranyihouboshizhongweizuilixiang,danshizuanshidechengpinxicongzuanshideyuanshijiejingtiqiemoerlai,tianranjiejingtidexingzhuangnanmianyoubujinjunyunlixiangzhichu,yincishijishangsuojiandeyaoweiwangwangyouhoubobujundexianxiang。pirujiandingshudeyaoweixiangxiaruojizaizhethin to slthick(bozhichenghou),jibiaoshixieyaoweiyouyibufenweibo、yibufenweishizhong、yibufenweishaohou,qizhongzuizhaibufenweibo,zuikuanbufenweishaohou。houbobufendefenpeibuyidingpingjun,youshibodebufenduoerhoudebufenshao,youshihoudebufenjiaobodebufenduo。
houbodefenpeiyipingjunerjianjinweiliang,tanghouchuturanbianbo,zeyaoweixiandebupingzhengerchengxianbolangxing,zheizhongyaoweiyingshiweiduichengshangdequexianzhiyi。yaoweihoubosuokuayuejishuyuduo,biaoshiqibupingzhengeryuweibuliang。chengxianbolangxingdeyaoweibiaoshidibukemianpailiedejiaodubuyizhi,huozaiyaoweixiayoujiaodadetianrancaomianhuoewaikemian。giazhijiluyaoweidehoudushiyongmuceguji,bingbushijiceliangqibaifenbi,
suoyitongchangshiyongshangshubazhongqingxingxushuhouboqingkuang,erbujiluqibaifenbi。
(er)mogongqingkuang(smoothness of girdle):
chulemoguanghuoyoukemiandeyaoweiwai,zhengchangdeyaoweiyingsibaiwubanbantouming,biaomianfeichangpinghua。
ruguomobianshiguoyucuxinhuojicu,cucaobuping,chengweicucaoyaowei(rough girdle)。
yijingmoguangdeyaoweijilu:polished。youkemiandeyaoweijiluweifaceted。xizhi、moguanghuoyoukemiandeyaoweidouyingshiweilianghaodeyaowei,jinyoucucaodeyaoweiyingshiweiqiemozhiyi,erlvejiansunzuanshidemeiguan。
yaoweishangruguochuxianxuliewen,chengweixubian(beardedhuofeathered girdle)。xubiantongchangbubiaoshiyufutushang,jinjizaiyubeizhulannei。yizhaogiazhi,ruoyaoweichuxianmingxianxuliewendezuanshi,qijingdudengjijiulieruchunjingji(fl)huoneibuchunjingji(if)。
七、尖底面(CULET)
zaimingliangxingwushibakemianzhizhong,jianmianyisuanzuoyimian,qidaxiaoyicifenweixialie:
1. pointedhuonone wu
2. very small henxiao
3. small xiao
4. medium bsp shizhong
5. slightly large xida
6. large da
7. very large henda
8. extremely large jida
jiandimiandedaxiaoduiyuzuanshideguangcaiyujiazhibingwumingxiandeyingxiang,yibanzhengchangdejiandimianyingweixiaohuoshizhong。meiyoujiandimianrongyishimianjianduanbengzhe。guodadejiandimianmuqianyihenshaojian,suijiaobuyaguan,danrujiangdibushaoweixiumo,jinsunshiweixiaozhongliang,jiunenggaizhengguolai。
duiyuweimoguang、cucaohuokansiyixiaobaidiandejiandi,tongchangchengzhiweirough,mosunhuoduanliedejiandizechengweiabradedhuochipped。zheierzhongbuzhengchangdejiandiyingyuzhongxinxiumo,danbingfeiyanzhongdequexian。
八、修饰(FINISH)磨光(POLISH)对称(SYMMETRY)
moguangshizhizuanshibiaomianmeiyikemianpaoguangxinidechengdu,zhuyaoshipanduanyouwumingxiandemolunwen(wheel mark)huoshaoshanghen(burn mark)decunzai。
yangelaijiang,zuanshiduichengdefenxiyingfenweierdalei:
yishiyanzhongxingdehuochengzhuyao(major)duichengbuliang,yingguinayubilvfanweikaolv,erxushuyubeizhulannei。
ershiqingweixingdehuochengciyao(minor)duichengbuliang,xizhikemiandexingzhuanghepailieshifouqizhenghuoqiadang,yinglieweixiushifanweinei,jinzonghepanduanqiyouliedengji,jizaiyuduichenglannei。fenximoguangyuduichengdeyouliechengdu,tongchangyixialiewujiweipingdingbiaozhun:
excellent youliang
very good henhao
good hao
fair shangke
poor buliang
zaisuoyoubaoshizhizhong,zuiweijiangjiumoguangyuduichengde,yingshuyuzuanshi。yanzhongdemoguanghuoduichengbuliang,zhishiliwai,feichanghanjian,ruonengfaxianshishangyingyubeizhulanneijiayishuoming。zuanshiqiemodeyouliangyufou,bunengzhiping「xiushi」lanneimoguangyuduichengdeyouliejingyupanduan,gengxukaolvzhenggezuanshideqiemobilvyujiaodushifouqiadang。
shishishang,moguangyuduichengyingxiangzuanshidejiazhi,meixiangjinxianyuhenxiaodebaifenbi。tongchangyuezai1~2%fanweinei,henshaodadao3%,yinweibuliangdemoguanghuoduichengnengyizhongxinmoguanghuolvejiaxiuzhengergaizhengguolai,danbilvhuojiaodubuhehubiaozhun,jiaonanyuxiugai,ruoyuxiugai,zezhongliangdesunshijiaoduo,guduizuanshiqiemozhilianggaodideyingxiangjiaoda。
九、净度等级(CLARITY GRADE)
zheishizuanshi4cdedi3gec,jingdudengjidehuafenjunyishibeifangdaguanchaweibiaozhun.zaishibeifangdaxiabunengchajuedaodeweixibiaomiantezhenghuoneihanwu,bingbuyingxiangjingdudengjipanding,danbixuzhuyishide,giazhixishiyongshuangmubaoshixianweijingweipanduanjingdudengjidegongju,zuihoubingyongshouchishibeifangdajingzaijiayifuhe。
zaisuoyouzuanshijiandingxiangmuzhong,zuiweizhuguandeyingweijingdudengji。yinweimeiyouerkezuanshidebiaomiantezhenghuoneihanwuwanquanxiangtong。bixuyikaojiandingzhedejingyanyuyipanduanbingjuedingqidengji。suoyipanshierrenjingdudengjizuihaoweiyoujingyanfeichangfengfudejiandingrenyuanweizhi,bingqiebimianyouyirenduduan,zuihaojingyoulingyibuxiangganhebuzhiqingderenfuhe,cainengjianshaoyinguofenzhuguanerfashengdepiancha。lirugtlbianyouerrenpingpanjingdudengji,ruoyuflhuoifdengjihuozheliangchuheyijianbutongshi,zeyoudisanzhejiayifuhe。
youyufuhechunjingjitiaojiandezuanshifeichangxishao,suoyiyibanzuanshijiaoyijunyineibuchunjingjiweizuigaojingdudengji(suchengquanmei)。jingdunaizuanshineibuhuowaibusuobaohantezhengdengjimiaoshu,giabingbugulijiangqichengweixiaci,yinxiacijuyoufumianyiyi。vvsjiyouyuchaoxiaodeneihanwu,rongyibeirenwujieweiquanmei。liruvsjideneihanwuzeshangbuyingxiangzuanshidemeiliyunaijiuxing。
净度等级图例
panduanjingdudengjierchakantezhengshi,xuduizuanshineiwaidesuoyoutezhengzuozhengtizonghekaolv,zheibaokuo:daxiao、shuliang、weizhi、xingzhi、yansejishifoutuxian,qicishiduizuanshinaijiuxingyingxiang。zaishibeifangdaguanchaxia,zhaochuzuimingxiandexiacihou,wangwangjinengduandingqijingdudengji,qitalingxingerbumingxiandexiaoxiaci,shenshaoyingxiangqijingdudengjidepanduan。suoyipanduanjingdudengjizuizhuyaodeshitezhengdeyijianchengdu,bingfeifuhetiaojianzhengshudetumianshangjishuzheqishuliangdeduogua。weixiaodebiaomiantezheng(blemishes,lirutianrancaomian、ewaikemian、molunwen、guashangwen、mosunhen、shangkou、shanghendengdeng)chulefenbianchunjingjiyuneibuchunjingjiwai,bingbuyingxiangqitadengji。
duiyucizhongweixiaodebiaomiantezheng,chutianrancaomianjiewaikemianwaigtlbingbubiaoshiyuzhengshuneitushang,jinjizaizheminor detail of finish(polish) not shownmoguangfangmiandeciyaoxijieweixianshiyufutushanglaishuoming,ranerqineibuzuoyedegongzuotushangquedouxiangximiaohuazhe。danshiyouxiejingyanbuzudejiandingshi,quebacixiebiaomiantezhengwuweineihanwu,yizhibaneibuchunjingjiwuduanweivvs1ji。haiyou,zaishibeiyishangfangdaguanchaxia,caikandejiandeneiwaitezhengyinghulvebuji,yibuxubiaoshiyutushang。
十、成色等级(COLOR GRADE)
zheishizuanshi4cdedisigec,daduoshuhanyouyansedezuanshidoushuyuhuangsexilie。qitayansedezuanshijiaoweixishao,qieqiyanserumingxianshijunshuyucaisezuanshifanwei,guzuanshichengsedengjidehuafen,jinxianyuhanyouhuangsedezuanshi。shijieshangsuoyouchengsedengjizhiduzhong,fenjizuiweishenmiqieqieheshijiyingyongzhe,shoutuimeiguobaoshixueyuan(gia)suochuanglidechengsefenjizhidu。shizhijintian,qizhiduyijingchengweiguojijianzuizhimingdezuanshichengsefenjibiaozhun,xuduoguojiahuodiqudoucankaocibiaozhunbingdiaozhengqizijidezhidu,huozhijieyinyongzheiyichengsefenjizhidudedengjimingcheng。
meiguobaoshixueyuandechengsefenjizhidu,xishiyongyingwenzimudaibiaochengsedengji,yidkaishiweizuigaochengsedengjierbuyonga、b、c。meiyiyingwenzimudaibiaomeiyijidechengsefanwei,erbushimouyidiantedingdechengseweizhi,zhiyougejibiaozhunchengsezuanshicaibixuweiyugaijizuigaochengseweizhi,suoyipubianzuanshijiandingzhengshusuilieweitongjichengsedegekezuanshi,youshirenghuiyouxiweideshangxiazhifen。
defsanjitongwuse,wulunzhengfanmianguancha,buhuxiangbijiao,junweiwuse。ghijsijizhecongzhengmianzhakanshiyidouweiwuse,
klmsanjicongzhengmianguanchashijindazuanshicaihuikanchuweiweidedanhuangse。njiyixiayibanrendouhuikanchuqidanhuangsediao,yizhizweizuidichengsedengji。huangsedenongduchaoguozjishizeweicaihuangse,yiqinongdanyoufenweidancaihuang(fancy light yellow)caihuang(fancy yellow)jixianmingcaihuang(fancy intense yellow)sanji。qitagezhongcaisezuanshiyitongyangfencisanji。
chengsedengjidehuafen(giazhi)
anzhaogiazhi,meiyiyingwenzimudaibiaogaijidechengsefanwei,erbushitedingdeweizhi,zhiyoubiaozhunchengsezuanshicaibixuweiyugaijizuigaochengsedeweizhi。pirubeifenjidezuanshigaoyubiaozhunchengsezuanshie,jishuyudji,gaoyufjiweieji,gaoyugjiweifji,yuleitui:huanyanzhi,zaibiaozhunshigyuhzhijianweigji,wangbiaozhunshihyuizhijianzheweihji,zaibiaozhunshiiyujzhijianzheweiiji,yuleitui。
成色-名称的由来
chengsezheiyimingmingchengshibizhaohuangjindehanjinliangerlai,huangjinsuohanzazhiyushao,yijihanjinliangyuduo,zechengseyugao。zuanshihanyouhuangse,rutonghuangjinsuohandezazhi,huangseyushaozechengseyugao。duiyuchengsefenjiyingyouderenshi
zaozai1940niandai,meiguobaoshixueyuanjifaminglechengsefenxiyi(colori-meter),gaiyiqihoulaisuijinggailiang,xingnengrengranyouxian,bingbupubianshiyongyurenhezuanshi,zhuyaoyuanyinshiyingxiangchengsegaodidegezhongyinsubingweiwanquanmingle。erqiezuanshichengseshouqiemobilv、yingguangfanying、toumingdujihanyouzasedengdengyinsudeyingxiang。suoyimeiguobaoshixueyuanrengcaiyongzhenzhengdezuanshizuoweibiaozhunchengsezuanshi,juyifenbiangejichengse,tongshiyucegaiyiqiruoyaojinrupubianshiyongjieduan,sihurengranyaoyaowuqi。
muqianshijiegedidebaoshijiandingshi,ruguoyigiazhiweizuanshichengsefenjibiaozhun,zebixubeiyouyitaojinggiajiandinghegedebiaozhunchengsezuanshi(master color dia-mondshuochengmaster diamonds),fouzechengsefenjiwufayuqizhiduwanquanwenhe,yizhichanshengpiangaohuopiandidexianxiang,ersangshibiaozhun。jinnianlaiyourenshiyongrenzaodecubic zirconia(jianchengcz)daitizhenzhengzuanshizuobiaozhunchengsezuanshizhiyong,buguomeiguobaoshixueyuanbingbuzanchengcifa,zhuyaoyinwei
(yi)czdehuangsezetongzhengchangzuanshihuangsezelveyoubutong,jiurutonghesehuohuisezuanshihennantonghuangsezuanshibijiaochengsegaodiyiyang。
(er)czdehuoguang(sesanguang)bizuanshiqiang,huiyingxiangpanduanchengsedezhunquexing。
(san)czyansedewendingxingbujia,guoyiduanshiqihou,chengsedengjiziranfashengbianhua。suoyimeiguobaoshixueyuanjujuejiandingczweibiaozhunchengsezuanshi。
zuanshishoudaowailainengyuandeciji,tongchangzhibaoluyuziwaiguangxianxiashi,suofashengdefanyingyanseguang。
依其强弱分为
(yi)nonemeiyou,
(er)faintweiruo,
(san)mediumzhongdu,
(si)strongqianglie,
(wu)very stronghenqiangdengwuji。
qizhongfaintbingbujizaiqiyingguangfanyingyanse。
十一、荧光反应
jinzuanshijiandingzhengshushangsuoceshixiangmuzhiyi,suojizaideqiangruojiyanse,duiyuzuanshidejiazhishenshaofashengyingxiang,ruyingguangfanyingweilansehuohuangse,bingbubiaoshigaizuanshibenshenjiweilanse ,huangse,zuanshichengsedegaoqixiyibenshenhuangsenongdanweipandingbiaozhun,erbushiyiyingguangfanyingyansewei yiju。
youyibufenzuanshizaiziwaiguangxianzhaoshexianengfachuyingguang,guangdudeqiangruobuyi,daduoshufalansedeyingguang。tu(a)hetu(b)shitongyipizuanshi,tu(a)shizaiputongguangxianxiasuokandaodemoyang,tu(b)shizheixiezuanshizaiziwaixianzhaoshexiasuofashengdeyingguangfanying,zheipizuanshishiteyixuanchuyouyingguangfanyingde,bingfeisuoyoudezuanshidouyouyingguangfanying。
riguangheyingguangdengdeguangxianneihanyouziwaiguangxian,shiyouyingguangfanyingdezuanshikanlaitebieminglianghemeili。zhishiyingguangfanyingtebieqiangliedezuanshizhizhong,youyibufenzuanshihuiyinciyingxiangleqitoumingdu,guyingguangfanyingtebieqiangliedezuanshiyibingbuyingxiangqitoumingzheweiyouliang。
十二、备注(COMMENTS)
beizhulanxibushuyixiewufalierushangshushulanneihuowuxumiaohuayufutushangdezuanshitezheng,li:
(yi) mailiwenhuochengluanjingwen(graininghuograin lines):mailiwenchufei xianseyouyanse、fanguanghuofabai,tongchangbushiweineihantezheng,yibumiaohuayufutushang。mailiwenyiqichuxiandemingxianchengdufenwei(1)nilmeiyou;(2)slightqingwei;(3)moderateyijian;(4)significantmingxiandengsiji,jinyouchuxianmingxiandemailiwencaijishuyucilannei。liru:surface graining is not shown(biaomianjiejingwenweixianshiyufutushang)。internal grain lines are not shown(neibujiejingwenweixianshiyufutushang)。
(er) bingbumiaohuayufutushangde。liru:minor details of polishes are not shown(moguangfangmiandeciyaoxijieweixianshiyufutushang)。additional pinpoints are not shown(lingwaiyouyixiezhendianweixianshiyufutushang)。
(san) zhuyaodebilv、jiaoduhuoduichengbuliang。liru:crown angles are greater than 35 degrees(guanbugaodudayu35 du)。
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深圳市罗湖区翠竹街道贝丽北路金展珠宝广场二十层20F-05/06
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